Triple S
Almost single-handedly launched the "ugly sneaker" trend that defined luxury streetwear in the late 2010s, proving that deliberate ugliness could be the most commercially successful aesthetic strategy in footwear history.
The Balenciaga Triple S debuted on the runway in January 2017 and reached retail in September at seven hundred and ninety-five dollars. The name references the three-layered sole construction — moulds from running, basketball, and track shoes stacked together to create a silhouette so deliberately bulky that it looked, to the uninitiated, like a manufacturing error. The paneled upper combines leather, suede, mesh, and nylon with embroidered branding on the side and a signature embroidered size number at the toe edge. The sole uses TPU injection technology creating an air-bubble effect for cushioning, though the shoe’s primary function was never athletic performance but cultural provocation.
The Wall Street Journal called it “ugly.” GQ called it “chunky, bulky, overdone.” The New York Times described them as “homely clompers.” Demna embraced every word. The Triple S catalyzed a seismic shift in luxury footwear, launching the “dad shoe” trend and spawning imitations from every price point in the industry. Kanye West and Bella Hadid wore them immediately. The sneaker became the first high-fashion shoe to unite sneakerheads and luxury consumers in a single queue — two populations that had historically regarded each other with mutual suspicion.
The Triple S remains in continuous production with current retail between eight hundred and fifty and nine hundred and ninety-five dollars depending on colorway. On the secondary market, limited editions command premiums while standard releases trade closer to retail. The shoe’s lasting significance is not its construction but its proposition: that fashion’s value hierarchy could be inverted, that the ugliest shoe in the room could be the most expensive, and that the discomfort provoked by that inversion was itself the product being sold.